KYB AGX on 96 GSR question

[Holden]

I just got these and wonder if anyone has these in combination with a rear strut tower bar.

It looks like I'll have to remove the strut tower bar to change the setting on the rear shocks.

Anybody done this?

Thanks


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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC, Walbro regular pressure pump, AEM cai,
RSR headers, Greddy PE, Brembo Cross-Drill rotors,
DC Sports Rear Strut Tower Brace (junk!), Yoko AVSi

Greg Holden's JRSC Install Site

[Holden]

Maybe I should have been clearer.

I was talking about changing the settings (1 to 4). This is done by turning a dial on the top of the rod (??? 1/2" diameter rod that sticks out of the shock housing) with a tiny screwdriver.

You can change the setting w/o removing them, but I think the strut tower bar will prevent the screwdriver from getting at the adjustment dial.

[grippgoat]

I have them on a '95 GS-R Sedan. There is no problem in the front. I don't have a rear strut tower bar. Whether or not you can get at the adjustment I think would depend on the bar. If you can get at the nut on the top of your current strut, then you shouldn't have a problem adjusting the AGXs. I think most strut tower bar designs I've seen go around the shock and not over it.

-Mike

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'95 GS-R Sedan Dark Green
Injen intake, DC Ceramic 4-2-1, Greddy SP
GC Coil-overs f/r 380/250 lb/in, KYB AGX f/r 2/3
soon: GC 25mm rear sway

[redline]

I have to take my bar off for the konis but did not have to for the tokicos

k

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Project Dark Side is Here!!!

JRSC 8psi, Walbro HP pump, MSD BTM, J&S, STR rail, etc...

[lundgren]

You don't have to remove the bar no. The shock pulls out from below. If you cannot get the the bolts, then yes, you'll have to remove it.

[Holden]

My rear bar is a crappy DC Sports one.

I'll be able to touch the adjustment dial, but don't know if the screwdriver will be able to get straight at it.

The bar doesn't immediately block the top of the shock, but it is directly over it about 4" up.

No big whup. I was just wondering if anyone had this combo.

Thanks.

[redline]

Holden: i have that same crappy DC bar. I have been thinking about replacing it but i do not know with what. Damn that thing flexes alot.

Kyle

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Project Dark Side is Here!!!

JRSC 8psi, Walbro HP pump, MSD BTM, J&S, STR rail, etc...

[civicboy]

Holden, what kind of bar are you using? I don't have to remove my rear bar to adjust my illuminas. I am using the neuspeed bar.

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95 Civic SOHC VTEC,JRSC,255HP fuel pump,RC 240cc,Split Second A/F meter,Greddy exhaust,Ground Controls,Tokico Illumina,rear ST swaybar,Nuespeed f&r upper bars,GAB lower f bar,f&r camber adjuster,Powerstop rotors w/ Porterfield pads

[JRCivic]

The Tokico's seem to be the most "User Friendly" of the bunch... that is why I use them on all of my cars. I do not have to remove my rear bar to adjust dampening settings.

Actually, the new race car will wear B&G threaded-body coil overs, but all three of my other Honda's wear Tokico's...

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

[Holden]

redline: I've thought about the DC bar, and I think it does the job for cornering purposes, but does not help prevent the unibody from flexing when hitting bumps.

The real performance work of a strut tower bar is done by letting the outside strut "pull" on the inside strut. Even though the DC flexes, it won't stretch, so it will do this job as well as any other bar.

However, it won't prevent the strut towers from moving towards each other when the car bottoms out or hits big bumps. An oval bar would prevent this stress on the unibody.